We all know the history of relaxers in the black community. In order to assimilate to the European beauty standards, black women began to relax their hair to appear higher class. This began as early as the 19th century. The relaxer targeted black women to distance them from their african roots. Funny enough according to Wikipedia, "The first documented history of the relaxer began with Garrett Augustus Morgan in 1909. His hair straighten cream was found accidentally when trying to find a solution to ease friction of sewing machine in his tailor shop. Morgan tested his cream on a neighboring dog's fur." Imagine that, it was an accident..tested on dogs!
I bring the history of the hair relaxer up because it is significant in the hair identity of black women to this day. Up until the mid 2000s, the relaxer was still used regularly in young black girls' hair. However, we saw a shift that began with the #NaturalHairMovement. This popularized the "big chop." We saw women cutting off their relaxed hair and transitioning to allow their natural hair to grow out. This change was polarizing to the elder generation of the black community. Cutting go their long relaxed hair was seen as irresponsible and dumb. These women were perceived as making a statement, when in reality they were just becoming their authentic selves. Freeing their imprisoned blackness.
The #NaturalHairMovement caught on. As we entered the 2010s, more and more black woman began embracing their natural curls and freeing themselves from relaxers. Though, many forget that the #NaturalHairMovement began with woman who had 4C hair.
Now, there are several different hair types. I'll enter a picture below:
As the movement became more popular, I didn't see my hair. I saw looser wavier textures like 3B or 3C hair. I have 4b/4c hair. That may not seem like much of a difference but it is. 4C has tighter curls/coils, the hair absorbs moisture faster which results in shrinkage. As a result, our hair looks shorter similar to Viola's in the 4c picture. Compared to 3b hair which has looser curls, so the curls are more defined and bouncy.
I can't speak for those with looser hair textures, but for me it was really hard learning how to embrace my hair. I looked to Youtube for tutorials but it was mainly woman with 3c/4a hair. I felt like something was wrong with me and my hair. Why didn't my curls look like hers? Why did my hair shrink so fast? Why couldn't I wear my hair out without being called nappy-headed? While it was acceptable for the girl with the 3c hair to wear her hair out and be complimented on her afro. When I was in the eight grade my hair fell out because I was using the wrong products, products that weren't defined for my hair type. Because I didn't see myself in the movement I felt lost and tried to force it.
But, I had to learn my hair. I learned that my hair is shy. She flourishes in protective styles, but when she's out she can dry easily--similar to me in social situations :). She prefers not to be manipulated too much. To detangle her you must start gently at the ends and not from the roots or else she'll get angry and rip out. I learned that she is unique. The same way someone else does their hair cannot always work for her. I learned that although the 4c girls in the movement have been outshined a little bit, doesn't mean they aren't there. I have to take my time and be patient with my hair. No matter how long she takes to grow, how many rubber bands I break trying to get them in my hair, no matter how tired my arms get on wash day, and no matter how many planned hairstyles go bad. My hair is normal. Wearing it out is not a political statement, it is just who I am.
I want society to normalize black women's hair. Specifically 4c hair. The #NaturalHairMovement is not solely defined by women with gorgeous bouncy curls. It is shaped by the women with the beautiful tight coils, the cotton soft feel, and the pillowy thickness. We all deserve to be represented. Short doesn't equal unhealthy and long doesn't equal healthy. 4c hair deserves to be loved in all it's states, not just suddenly accepted when its long.
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"Another one" .... okay that was cringey. But, if you made it this far be sure to share the link with friend that can relate. okay bye!
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